Why are Homes Expensive?

Why Are Homes Expensive?

Among the obvious reasons are commodity, material, and labor prices as well as the run up in number of homes that where built and the availability of money. Among the lesser known reasons is the building code, minimum lot sizes, and expected amenities.

I have two 150 square drawings that I like to show clients. One is 10 x 15 has four corners and a 50’ perimeter. The other has an 86’ perimeter and 22 corners. We used to build them quick and inexpensive now we build them complicated and expensive. In the first 20 years I have been building it was rare to see a concrete pump truck visit a job-site. We used wheelbarrows and our backs. Now I’m not one to impede progress but that is a $500 item tacked onto every house. Granite was reserved for the well-to-do. Now it is in homes down in the $200k range. Irrigation systems are becoming normal, jetted whirlpool tubs, three and four bathrooms, and on and on and on. There is a point when the cost of a home outweighs the value of the home. That is part of what we have been seeing in this housing downturn.

The building code is designed for the safety and welfare of the homeowner. While it seeks to create a balance between cost and safety it generally errs on the side of safety. The most recent major change concerns an item known as Braced Wall Panels (BWP). More engineers and the plywood industry are making a bundle because of these regulations and for the most part the requirement is superfluous at best. But this requires additional work on the part of the home designer, the builder, the masonry contractor, the framing contractor, possibly the drywall contractor, and the building official at both the plan review stage and conducting inspections of the home during construction. Permit fees and construction time has increased because of this which leads to additional finance and carrying charges.

Many factors contribute to the cost of a home and most will ask for a cost per square foot. This can be terribly misleading and difficult to pin down because a lot depends on the choices of the homeowner. Most commodities that do fluctuate tend to not change the cost structure by too great a degree but a home owner never has a hard time finding a $600 sink that they just can’t live without.

Thanks for reading and please visit my website

www.cshadedesign.com

I look forward to hearing from you…

Conditioned Crawl

Conditioned Crawl

Conditioning a crawl space along with air-sealing the exterior envelopes are two items that should be implemented by all homeowners and builders that would like to bring “Green” construction to their project. These two items alone can account for the most energy saving benefits that you will see as a homeowner.

One thing is true especially in older homes: There is a forced air heating and/or cooling system that was either added 30 years ago or placed when the home was built and it is in the crawl space or the attic. Either way one of two things is happening. 1. The system’s ducting was never insulated or was built using duct board. (If it’s duct board run away!) 2. The duct system was held together using Duct Tape, now called Duck Tape because it did not work on ducts and this tape has failed and the ducts are leaking air all over. A third option especially with 30+ year old systems is mechanically fastened galvanized ducting that is not sealed in any way but also is not potentially coming apart. Trust me this stuff would stay together in a tornado. This latter type of duct is a great candidate for a conditioned crawl space. It is already leaking enough air to keep the crawl space pressurized therefore keeping ground borne pollutants at bay. And it’s easier and better to condition the crawl than it is to mastic seal and insulate the duct. Create a conditioned space around the duct; allow it to be brought into the building envelope that is already full of conditioned air much as a Mechanical Room inside the building envelope is.

Most old homes (and a lot of new ones) are leaking air around windows, doors, walls, electric outlets, light boxes, overhead fixtures, at wall corners, thru plumbing penetrations, floor joists at the exterior, attic access stairs and doors to attics, fireplaces, chimneys, kitchen and bath exhaust fans, dryers, what did I miss? Because of this the home is essentially one big chimney where hot air rising creates a need for cool air to fill this void. Conditioning the crawl space is one way to help plug this chimney and keep ground pollutants out of your living space.

Thanks for reading and please visit my website

www.cshadedesign.com

I look forward to hearing from you…

Lead Safe? As in the Element

Lead Safe?

Was your home built prior to 1978? Then you have a 25% chance that there is lead based paint in your home. 1960? Then there is a 66% chance of lead based paint. Prior to 1940? 86%. And don’t think that it is just the paint on the walls. Nearly ALL surface coatings of these eras contained lead. This means cabinets, floor finishes, stained woodwork, and especially exterior finishes. Knowing what is lead based on your home is knowledge that your kids can learn on.

The best way to remove lead from your home is to well; remove it. Hiring a qualified lead certified contractor who has completed the EPA’s course on Lead Safety for Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) is a good place to start. Containing the lead thru a new paint job can be a viable option to mitigate small hands from putting chips in their mouths. What to look out for here is the sanding of the existing surface prior to the paint being applied.

Have you ever spilled or even opened a packet of Sweet-n-Low or Equal? This is about a gram of substance. More than enough to become airborne, land on horizontal surfaces and be moved around the home. What’s interesting is that you will taste this on your tongue or in the nose simply by breathing. That somewhat sweet taste on the air can be pleasing and pleasant. It may even catch you a little off guard. Lead dust doesn’t taste, or smell, or otherwise heighten your senses. You just breathe it in.

Take the time to limit your and your homes exposure when refinishing a surface. Ask for and hire a contractor who has been certified by the EPA’s RRP program and be proactive about keeping you and your family safe during a remodel or renovation of your home.

NARI Central VA is committed to having its contractor members RRP certified to help you when you need to add-on, remodel, or renovate.

Thanks for reading and please visit my website

www.cshadedesign.com

I look forward to hearing from you…

Ice Insidiousness

Ice Insidiousness

Here in Central Virginia we have had an unusual winter. Well at least unusual for the last 20 years. Snow that fell, melted some, fell again, melted a little more, fell again then decided that freezing and thawing would be a good way to go.

This has created problems that we have not had to address for some years and namely it has to do with flat or low slope roofs. Ice has a way of finding and exploiting any small hole or crack that may have developed in flashing's and edgings as well as places where a branch has fallen or a squirrel decided tasted good. These holes may have been there for quite a while and have never been noticed due to the small quantity of water that has been entering through the roofing material. A good soaking rain or any bulk water will find its way to this hole but ice melt likes to take advantage of the path of least resistance.

The problem is that ice will form and does not allow melt to easily move to areas of drainage. It therefore sits in a spot and slowly moves along. Small holes begin to become the drain and overtime will get soaked. Compounding this is the water potentially freezing and thawing in this hole or crack causing it to expand and allowing more water to intrude. We tend to notice these cracks in winter because that is when the leak starts. It probably has been there for quite a while it’s just that there has not been enough water to make it noticeable. If the rafter bays have been insulated, as I have done to mine, it may take quite a bit of water to soak through to the inside surface. This creates a whole new problem in that the insulation will never dry and eventually you have a mold and rotting problem.

After the snow melts away and the roof is dry it will be a good idea to either have a roofer inspect the flat roof or take time to put a new coating on it. Ultimately if you have seen a leak you need to seek professional help. There may be far more damage than you expect and replacing this flat roof may be the best choice.

Thanks for reading and please visit my website

www.cshadedesign.com